Express, a longtime fixture in malls, has initiated Chapter 11 bankruptcy proceedings but aims for rejuvenation under the stewardship of a consortium led by WHP Global. This decision follows the announcement of shuttering 95 Express stores and all UpWest outlets. The investor group, which includes WHP, Simon Property Group, and Brookfield Properties, intends to acquire Express's assets, supported by $35 million in financing and an additional $49 million from the CARES Act. Despite financial challenges, CEO Stewart Glendinning remains optimistic about advancing business strategies, citing progress in refining product assortments and strengthening operations.
Express's plight stems from declining sales and burdensome mall leases, leading to a total asset value of $1.3 billion and debts amounting to $1.2 billion as of March 2. The retailer's struggles to pay vendors on time indicate significant financial strain, exacerbated by challenges in managing cash flows. The acquisition of Bonobos' assets last spring, jointly with WHP, was a strategic move amid weakening core business and cash constraints.
However, the underlying issue remains declining revenue, which has plummeted by approximately 10% since 2019. Neil Saunders, managing director at GlobalData, attributes this decline to the softening of the formal and smart casual apparel market due to factors like remote work trends and the casualization of fashion. Express's failure to adapt to these shifting market dynamics exacerbated its financial woes, leading to the bankruptcy filing.
Bankruptcy provides a crucial lifeline for Express, enabling it to exit burdensome leases, particularly in struggling malls, and making the company more appealing to potential buyers. Legal counsel Kirkland & Ellis, alongside advisors Moelis & Co. and M3 Partners, will guide Express through this restructuring process, positioning the retailer for a potential resurgence in the challenging retail landscape.